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You do not have to be a writer in order to create a book and put it up for sale on eBay, amazon or anywhere else that you may want to sell it. As crazy as it may sound the above sentence is totally true.

I am not talking here about getting someone else to sit and write your book for you. Nor am I advocating hiring a ghostwriter and feeding them with information, along with loads of your hard earned cash in order to have your precious and enterprising thoughts put onto paper or the computer word processor.

Quite simply instead of this, you can search for and locate an old book in the public domain, then go out and obtain an original copy of the creation and use it as the basis for a new and even more creative work, that belongs entirely to yourself.

Old Books on which copyright have expired are ripe for turning into new books, ebooks, CD’s, Audio files, et cetera, using the minimum amount of time possible. Find a niche market that you like or have researched on, to ascertain your probable market and whether you believe that you can make some real money from it.

When you have found your market you then need to obtain an old book or reference work from the public domain to use as the basis for creating your wholly owned new product, ready to earn fantastic amounts of cash for you.

Let us say for instance that you want to produce a book on…” Teaching your Dog to be Obedient!” In this example then, you could go to one of the public domain download sites such as Project Gutenberg or Google Books and do a search.

For such keywords as “Puppy Training” “How to Train Your Dog” or “Dog Obedience” or some such similar word or phrase, type into Google’s search bar and see what results are returned. Try it for yourself if this is really your niche market. I can virtually guarantee that you will be returned over 1 million pages for each of these phrases.

For the word “Dog” alone there are probably about 4 million pages, so I recommend breaking this down into much smaller and more targetable niche’s. With a little practise you will quite soon find which are the best search terms to use and will be rewarded with quantities of suitable books or references from the public domain.

Now some sites will simply allow you to download their materials and use them for yourself, whilst others will charge you or say that you can only use the work from their site as a reference. If the latter is the case it really should not matter too much to you, as all you need to do is obtain for yourself an original copy of an Old Book or other work you have found.

With this original copy in your possession nobody can challenge your ultimate right to use the work however you desire and as your very own creation.

Staying with the example which I have given here; I.E. “Dog Obedience” you can then alter and use the public domain work in any legal way that you see fit. You may choose just to publish your new book exactly as it was when originally authored, or you could re publish your Old Book as a “How To Course” and turn each chapter into an individual section for your new course or part work.

Issue your part work on a weekly or monthly fee paid basis and the rewards you can obtain will be much larger than if you just reprint and publish your book as a whole work.

For example you could use the old book as a course entitled ” How to Train and Raise your Dog” Split up the chapters and call them weekly lessons, for example:

A) House Training

B) Staying still when told

C) Not begging food

D) Do not bite

E) Stop barking

F) Do not jump up at people

G) Do not sniff around people… etc. (I’m sure you get the idea here.)

Market this to a list of interested dog owners or would be dog owners (as we have already established there are millions, so remember to do your Google search) and your new work, created very simply from your Old Book could be on the way to making you a small fortune.

A fantastic place to find a book in the public domain about dogs, or indeed any subject you desire would be ebay.com or ebay.co.uk where you could do a search under the category of “Books Comics and Magazines-Antiquarian & Collectible” plus “illustrated” if you like. Even narrow down your search to dates, such as “1850 to 1899″ etc for a more interesting array of ancient books. Incidentally I have just done such a search and returned 113 results many of which are extremely suitable for recreation as your “new” Old Book.

One of these auctions as of today’s date was for “The Illustrated Book Of The Dog by Vero Shaw 1881″ and is up for sale at a buy it now of £800. WOW HOW MUCH?

Now I am not for one single minute suggesting that you go out and blow £800 on a book about your chosen niche, because there are many cheap bargains to be had for just a few pounds, even pennies in some cases.

But among the gems and very expensive items someone is making fantastic amounts of cash. I know of one serious marketer (name I’ll keep secret for now, although I’m sure a bit of competition wouldn’t harm them at all) who is selling this particular book as a “how to course,” using each chapter as a different title and sending it out to a very interested list of clients for amazing money, which will probably bring in an income for life.

Bid for and get hold of your historic book. Convert it into your own format, which is very simple to do. Within a few short days your old dog book (or any other niche you choose) could be earning an ever increasing income for you a long way into the foreseeable future.

Need more Information? Dave Robus provides information on how to profit from the Public Domain at Old Books Make Money where he covers ebook creation from old books in a logical step by step process. On his blog Dave also gives regular free hints and tips on Niche Market research to find the best selling idea’s, which you can put into practice and achieve high income’s by taking Public Domain items for re-creation into high value products.

Secrets To Dog Training

Throughout the web, you will find hundreds of business opportunities. From selling coffee to selling cars, you’ll find hundreds of things that you have the opportunity to get into to make money. Yet, it is sad to report to you that on average, 70% of all new home based businesses will fail within the first three years that they are out there. Now, before you get discouraged, realize that they do this because of several reasons.

1. They are poorly executed, by individuals that are looking for a get rich quick scheme and realize that, well; it takes work to make money.

2. They are scams that were un-researched, poorly designed or just plain old dumb to start with.

3. The individuals that got into them didn’t have the income to put into the business to make the business work.

With that said, there are some excellent things that you can do to actually make an income from home. You will likely need to invest something in it (you don’t get something for nothing!) and you’ll have to invest time in making it work well.

Here are some things that you can do in brief.

Affiliate Marketing

This is an easy to understand concept. You’ll design a website that is geared at selling someone else’s product. You get a cut for the sales that are made because someone that came to your website makes a purchase. Often, you get a kickback even if they just visit the site. This is one of many programs that you can usually do together to make even more money. In other words, pair it up with other business opportunities and you are sure to see some profit.

Selling Readymade Products

For those that are looking to sell a product that someone else has made, check out these. Often, these are sold by the development of a website that promotes the product. Things like digitalized products or software are very hot sellers. People come to your website to learn about the product and you sell it to them or provide a link to where they can purchase it. In most cases, you get a commission like payment for doing this.

Think you can’t just sell products online anymore? You can. In fact, you’ll even be able to find products that are below cost and sell them with a good mark up as well.

Writing And Selling Ebooks

People come to the internet to get information. Why not sell it to them? If you have knowledge (or can get it) about a topic that others want to learn about, you can easily tap into this business market. All you need to do is to write an ebook (or have it written by a professional) and market it. This can be done through eBay or through hundreds of other methods.

Joint Venture

You can often team up your sales with others that are selling the same or similar products. By working together, you can hit a larger amount of people and pull in more sales. A joint venture usually splits the commission made as well as the cost of doing business.

Ecourse

Are you able to teach an individual something? If so, then you should write up an ecourse. This is simply a series of emails, of website information or any other medium that is used to teach or coach an individual. You simply provide information they want and they pay you to do it.

Teleseminars

If you are a good speaker and have information to sell (or that you can obtain) then teleseminars are the way to go. You simply provide a conference call where individuals can call in and listen to what you are teaching them. Of course, they paid you first.

Public Domain Products

Little did you know that you could use material that is labeled as public domain to help enhance your business. Team this up with other types of marketing and you are sure to sell your product.

Directory or Review Websites

By creating websites where individuals go to receive a product or service, you are opening the door to making profits. Team this up with things like affiliate marketing and Google Adsense and you’ll see an income.

Membership Sites

Develop a membership of individuals that are looking for your products or information. They will pay you monthly to use your service.

Ezines

One of the fastest growing ways of marketing on the web, you simply put together an online form of a magazine or newspaper and sell it. You can also give it away free and fill it with ads to your products or website campaign.

EBay

Learn how to make money on eBay one of the world’s largest auction websites. You can make an income, not just a few dollars if you develop a campaign to do so.

Blogs

Blogs work well on websites. By providing information there about your products or attracting individuals back to your blog, you can promote the products on your website easier.

Google Adsense

Normally individuals pair up Google Adsense with other marketing campaigns to sell their products. This is a way of getting a few extra profits when individuals visit ads that are on your website.

Podcasting

In the digital age, people are looking to stay connected all the time. With podcasting, you can sell your product or service or you can actually build a casting such as a radio show that goes out around the world.

Amazon Book Reseller

If you have books lying around your house that you would like to get rid of, you can become listed on Amazon as a reseller. Unlike eBay this is not an auction site. It’s a great way to sell books that you don’t need. (You can also find free or really cheap ones to sell if you don’t have any!)

Opinion Panels

Why not take a few surveys and make money? There are many survey websites on the web that do actually pay you a good deal of money to take them. Once you find them, its easy sailing here.

Conclusion

Making money online can happen. You have to make the right decision about doing so though. You’ll need to find the business that fits into your life and your needs. Then, you’ll need to learn how to do the business, what it takes and the tricks of the trade. If you can learn this, you can buy it to learn throughout the web. From a little stream to a full time income, the internet is full of ways you can make money.

Keith Lee is a motivational speaker, a life coach and a fitness instructor for the past 10 yeras. He study and did research on the Internet Marketing Industry for years. Go to his webiste http://www.MyInternetMarketingSuccess.com for some superb tips.

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As a dog owner, you should be always looking for healthier dog food with higher quality.

The problem is that most of the dog owners like you are taught to believe that commercial dog foods are healthier choices for your dogs. The truth is most of them are NOT. Read on to find out why.

Here are the top three death-causing toxic chemicals that can be found in most commercial dog foods:

1. Sodium pentobarbital
2. BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), Ethoxyquin and Propylene glycol
3. Lead

Their devastating effects have led them to be banned from human consumption. Read on to find out.

Sodium pentobarbital is the chemical that veterinarians use to put dogs and cats to ’sleep’. This toxic chemical cannot be removed completely during food processing. So when your dog eats those commercial dog foods, it is possible for this death-causing toxic to accumulate inside their body system permanently. When it reaches a toxic level, it will kill, if not, cause irreversible damages to your dog’s body system eventually causing it to fall ill easily or result in organ failure.

BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), ethoxyquin and propylene glycol are commonly used as fat stabilizers in dog foods as preservatives. BHA and BHT cause liver and kidney dysfunction while ethoxyquin is a potential cancer-causing agent. Hence, many companies have claimed that they moved away from using ethoxyquin. Another toxic chemical, propylene glycol, is found in many semi-moist dog foods and causes red blood cells destruction.

Lead, an extremely toxic heavy metal is also commonly found in pet foods. A research conducted in Massachusetts Institute of Technology published as “Lead in Animal Foods,” presented one shocking discovery - A typical 9-pound cat was found to be ingesting, through commercial pet food, far more lead daily than the toxic level for children in their lifetime. Imagine that on your dog. And here is the worst part - heavy metals reside in body systems permanently. Heavy metals have known to cause nervous damage to animals when accumulated in their body systems.

This is a very real fact of commercial dog foods though not all commercial dog companies pumps all these materials into their dog food products.

So if you truly want the best for your dog, the best way out is to personally prepare food meals for it. At least you know you won’t be pumping the food up with any unnecessary deadly preservatives.

© Dominic Tay, DogFoodSecretsExposed.com

© Dominic Tay, DogFoodSecretsExposed.com

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Just imagine racing down a snow-covered hill, cold wind blowing in your face, your warm, wool scarf fluttering behind you. You are bouncing up and down, trying to keep yourself on course, but occasionally drifting off to the side. You feel like flying. Sledding is one of the best forms of recreation for a snowy day.

Sledding has been around for hundreds of years and is one of the oldest winter sports. Descriptions of sledding can be found dating back to the 1500s. But it was not until 1885 that the first official sledding race, the Grand National, was held in Switzerland.

Sleds come in all sizes and shapes and are made from a variety of materials, including metal, plastic, wood, and even rubber. A straight running sled is the most basic kind of modern-day sled. Most are made of plastic and are fast and easy to steer. Some even come with their own brakes and steering wheels. The most recognized kind of sled is a steel runner sled. These are the wood and metal sleds that you usually see in pictures and have been around for a long period of time.

Another type of sled is round, and its name sounds like it could be found in outer space. It’s called a saucer sled. Saucer sleds let you spin and turn. But you better be careful. Since they do not let you steer, you might just be going backwards, sideways, or off the path altogether before you realize it. Also, snow tubes are round. They are filled with air and can also be used for floating in a pool or lake. Snow tubes let you bounce as you go over bumps, but they do not give you much control. When filling these kinds of sleds with air, remember not to fill them too full. If you do, there is the risk of them bursting in front of your eyes!

Remember that not all sheds can be bought in stores. A flattened cardboard box or garbage can lid can work just as well. Take your kids, your friends or just yourself and sled away when you have a chance. The feeling of being back to nature can be better conceptualized when experienced, so do not waste time or procrastinate. Sledding is one of the best exercises you body and mind can enjoy. The best part of sledding is that you can watch your friends and family smiling at your or their snow adventures!

Jonathon Hardcastle writes articles for http://sportsoftheworld.net/ - In addition, Jonathon also writes articles for http://4educationinformation.com/ and http://moviestelevisionandmore.com/

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Hey even I’m willing to learn new things if there’s a broiled lobster in it for me.

When I’m hungry that is.

If I’m not hungry, or if I’m so distracted that a lobster won’t tempt me, then I’ll blow you off to continue doing what I want, not what you want.

That’s pretty much how your dog sees the issue when you train with food. If he’s hungry at the moment, and if there’s nothing more compelling going on, food can be a great way to reinforce behaviors you teach your dog. On the other hand, if Fido isn’t food motivated, or if he’s got something “better” to do, he won’t be interested.

Nonetheless, training with food has its benefits when used as a motivator and a reward. For those dogs who just aren’t normally interested in treats, you can substitute play with a toy if that motivates them.

The first thing you have to know about using food in training is how NOT to use it. The primary rule is not to use it to stop an unwanted behavior. Instead, use it to create a new behavior you want to teach.

With those rules in mind, you won’t teach your dog to stop growling at other dogs by using food. But you may be able to teach him to sit more quickly if there’s something tasty in it for him.

Before I tell how you to deliver food treats when training, let me tell you WHY you should not use food to try and stop an unwanted behavior. The answer is because you can accidentally reinforce the very behavior you’re trying to stop.

For example, let’s say Fido growls at other dogs on his walks. If you tell him to stop growling, and distract him with a treat, what has he really learned?

Here’s what YOU’RE thinking…he stopped growling so I rewarded him for that with a cookie. He won’t growl again.

Here’s what FIDO is thinking…this is cool, I growl, then mom pops me a cookie. Let’s see if this works…let’s growl more!

Think of food as a directional reward. How, when and where you deliver it all determine whether the treat teaches your dog what you intended, or something else altogether. For example, you tell Fido to sit, and you hold a treat six inches over his head, while pushing down on his butt.

Sound about right? Wrong! By holding that treat six inches over his head, you’re really teaching Fido to sit then immediately break that position in favor of jumping up to get the cookie.

Instead, start Fido standing on a closely held leash. Show him you have a cookie, by holding it at nose level-only an inch from his sniffer– while he’s standing up. Direct his attention, and nose, slightly higher by raising the cookie only enough so that he must tend toward a sit to view it. While he’s focusing upward only a couple of inches over his nose, use your other hand to push his butt down, while your cookie hand keeps the treat only a couple of inches from his nose as it moves.

As soon as he is sitting, deliver the treat to him just slightly above nose level, and slightly toward his rear. This means that to collect the treat, Fido must actually lean back into the sit more to reach it.

Mission accomplished! Food hasn’t been just randomly delivered to your dog, leaving him wondering why he got it. Instead, the food has clearly communicated how he can get this treat even faster next time, by sitting when you ask.

Anyone getting hungry?

Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is Vice President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Visit him on the web at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.dogtraininginchicago.com.

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A good photograph portrays your horse in his best possible light. A bad photograph, by contrast, draws attention to every fault, no matter how insignificant, and sometimes even exaggerates those faults!

Whether you are advertising your horse because he is for sale or advertising his recent show ring accomplishments, knowing how to photograph your horse correctly is a skill you must develop. If you derive income from your horses getting good photographs of them to put in front of the public is absolutely integral!

So, how do you take good photographs of your horse? Well, the first thing you should know is that it takes a little bit of practice. You shouldn’t expect to load your camera, take a few rolls, and be Robert Vavra over night! However, if you follow the following tips you’ll be shooting great pics of your horse in no time.

* Film matters! That’s right, use good-quality film such as Kodak or Fuji, and you’ll see it really does make a difference. If you are using a 35 mm format opt for 200 ASA. Going digital? The higher the pixels the better.

* Pick the right day. A bright day is good, but pick a day that isn’t too sunny. Too much sun will create dark shadows, and can be particularly problematic if you are shooting a dark horse. If you have no choice but to shoot on a sunny day, use a flash to eliminate shadows. It sounds counterintuitive, but it really does work!

* Prepare your horse. Now I know you are not going to stand him up hairy and dirty, but in addition to good grooming you might want to take some extra steps to ensure your horse looks his best. If appropriate to the discipline in which he participates, braid his mane and oil his hooves. Make sure his coat and his tail are shiny and well-brushed.

* Pick a uncluttered background. A natural background such as a field, woodland, or pasture is a good choice. The barnyard or driveway, no matter how neat and clean, is not a great choice because of the stuff that is bound to be in the background. You want the viewer to be wowed by your horse, not your new Cadillac Escalade. Look at the details before you click! Sounds crazy, but how many amateur photographs have you seen that depict horses with pitchforks growing out of their heads? As improbably as it sounds, I bet at least one, right? It bears repeating-check the background!

* Make sure tack is clean. If you photograph your horse in his bridle or saddle, make sure that both have been recently scrubbed. For that matter, anything your horse wears in a photo should be squeaky clean. That goes for the rider and handler, too!

* Enlist the help of a knowledgeable horse person. You can’t take pictures and position the horse too, so you’ll need some help. It’s best if the person who helps you knows how to pose a horse to his best advantage.

* The angle and position of the horse are key. For a full body shot, stand the horse with both front legs together and one hind leg slightly behind the other. To minimize parts looking too large or too small, focus on the middle of the horse, and do not shoot from too high or too low. Make sure the horse looks alert with bright eyes and both ears forward. Horse not cooperating? Have a friend make some noise (outside the frame, of course!) to get your horse’s attention.

* Get the right action. If you are taking shots of your horse in action, you’ll want to capture his power and impulsion. If your horse is trotting or cantering, try to capture him with his leading leg extended.

* Stay away from the front and rear. Photos from the side come out much nicer than photos taken head on or from the rear, which almost always accentuate unwanted things and make them look, well, HUGE!

* Keep clicking! While skill is most certainly involved, some of the best horse photographs are lucky. That’s right. Don’t wait for the perfect moment. Just keep clicking and you are sure to get a shot that shows your horse at his best!

Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.

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Offside Rule - Usually, soccer rules are easy to grasp even by someone that’s watching the game for the first time in his life. You foul someone, you get penalized. You hit him in the box, his team gets a penalty. The ball goes beyond the marked area, it’s an out throw. Everything is really basic, except the soccer offside rules. This is one tricky rule and although it’s not in the original soccer cookbook (as in, it was added over the course of time) it’s a much needed one, so that’s why I’ll try to explain it a bit.

The offside trap rule only applies to attackers and it is meant to regulate both team’s positions on the pitch. Without an offside rule, an attacker could simply stay in the other team’s penalty box, receive balls and try to score. This would pin down the defenders and they would virtually be unable to play anywhere else outside their own penalty box, since their main job would be marking the striker that is lazying off in there.

It’s also a known fact that attackers generally don’t have the same effort requirements on the pitch, since they only need to participate in one phase of the game (the offense), unlike defenders and midfielders who have to participate in both the offense and defense, thus having to run more. So now that you know WHY the soccer offside rule is there, let’s see WHAT it is anyway.

There are two phases of the offside soccer rule: the offside position and the offside trap sanction. If an attacker is in an offside position, he will only be sanctioned if the ball is heading towards him and he has an intention to play it. Otherwise, if he skips the game, he will not be called, despite having a clear offside position.

An attacker is in an offside position if he is closer to the other team’s goal line than the ball and the second last opponent. You’ll often hear people say “he was in offside, because he was further towards the goal than the LAST defender”. This is actually not a correct statement, since this doesn’t take the goalkeeper into account, so the LAST defender is actually the second last, as the above mentioned offside rule shows.

So let’s say that team “Yellow” is attacking and “Red” is defending. The ball is at the feet of Yellow’s midfielder and the Yellow attacker is a few meters further to the Red team’s goal line, than the last Red defender. Then the Yellow attacker is in an offside position, but the referee will only call an offside sanction if the Yellow midfielder passes the ball to the Yellow attacker while the latter is in the offside position.

If you’re new to soccer, the offside rule might need a bit of getting used to, but you’ll soon be able to spot exactly how and why someone was called offside if you watch a few matches. Note that sometimes, the position of the attacker and the other team’s defender are so close together, that the referee will have hard time deciding whether or not an offside should be called.

Niv Orlian is the author and the owner of http://www.soccer-fans-info.com a website that provides information on various topics related to soccer such as the history of soccer, rules, famous soccer players, real time news, statistics, and training guides.

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There are many health related issues to consider regarding the happiness of your cat and the deworming process should be a top priority. In order to effectively deworm your cat you should understand, how often the procedure should be done, the kind of worms that typically infect cats and the ways in which various types of worms can affect you cat’s health. Before exploring theses issues further, here is some background information for you to consider.

Just about all kittens are infected with some kind of parasitic worm at the time of birth, which were transmitted while the kitten was developing inside the mother’s womb. Alternatively worm eggs can be transmitted via the mother’s milk during the nursing stage. Unless the mother is medically confirmed to be worm-free and lives in an immaculate indoor environment, there is a high probability the her kittens will have worms. With that being said, it is important to understand the following conditions as well as the deworming process involved.

All stray kittens will have worms. Don’t assume otherwise. Any stray kitten recovered must be taken to a veterinarian as soon as possible for deworming and other treatments. If your cat is a hunter and catches and consumes small animals such as birds or mice, it is highly likely that your cat will have worms from ingesting worm larvae that commonly exist in these animals.

Indoor cats can also be infected with worms. Chronic heaving and retching behavior is suggestive of a possible worm infestation in your cat. If a cat vomits and the worms are visible, this of course is a clear proof that the cat needs to be dewormed immediately. The most common type or worm to infect cats are Roundworms that look like spaghetti and Tapeworms that are flat and with box shaped sections.

Veterinarian worm testing may not always show a positive result for worms even if they exist. The common fecal test will only show a positive indication of worms if they are active and migrating within the cat. Quite often, worms can exist dormant within the cat’s body for a long time and only manifest themselves in a fecal exam after some sort of stress event like pregnancy or surgery.

Sudden changes in appetite or diarrhea are possible signs of worm infection. Fur that loses its sheen or the developing of a protruding belly are other signs. Cats that are observed eating feces must definitely be put through a deworming process.

Determining the exact type of worm infecting a cat will be critical to successful treatment because medication is specific to the type of worm. For example medication to rid a cat of round worms will not work for tape worms or other types of worms. Generally fecal testing is the best method for determining the type of worm infecting cat.

Worm medications can be in the form of a liquid or a pill and when administering medication to a cat it is vitally important to confirm that the cat actually ingests it. Concealing the medication in cat food or a treat is a simple way to accomplish this. It is also important to understand that it typically takes several deworming treatments to completely rid a cat of worms. This is due to the fact the worms in their various developmental stages will vary in their susceptibility to the medication.

In conclusion, you should subject your cat to a deworming process as warranted by conditions mention earlier. Regular veterinary fecal tests and closely monitoring your cat for symptomatic and behavioral signs of worm infection is the key for determining when and how often your cat should be dewormed.

Ariel Keis is the webmaster of http://www.PawHouseOnline.com The Paw House - a 501(c3) charity dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and abused animals and restoring them to their rightful place a loving human companions.

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Ethology is the science that studies behaviors of a species under natural situations. Therefore, it studies instinctive and non-instinctive behaviors that are typical of a species.

Dog whispering is a training technique based on canine ethology. So, it takes into account those behaviors that are natural in dogs, but usually ignore the principles of learning theories.

The fundamental premise of dog whispering is that the owner should become the leader of the pack. This is also known as the theory or paradigm of the alpha dog.

According to the alpha dog paradigm, dogs establish dominance hierarchies in the pack. Thus, you should achieve the higher hierarchy, the alpha dog status, in order to maintain a good relationship with your dog.

Though it is not clear when the paradigm of the alpha dog appeared, it is well known that it gained popularity in the eighties.

Jan Fennell and Cesar Millan are two of the most famous practitioners of dog whispering. The latter is perhaps the most famed trainer at these days, because of his show “The Dog Whisperer” broadcasted by National Geographic.

Some authors say that dog whispering is based on scientific studies of wolf packs. Others say the technique was developed after studying the social behavior of dogs for several years.

Unfortunately, there are several non-standardized variants of this technique. Besides, some of the technique variants seem to be based only on popular beliefs and not on real studies about dog behavior.

Dog whispering by itself is useless to teach obedience commands. For that reason, many trainers don’t accept it as real training technique. Moreover, it is also frequent that practitioners of this technique don’t consider themselves as dog trainers. Instead, they claim they are people who can communicate with dogs by a deep understanding of dog behavior and proper body language.

Dog whispering advocates claim that the technique provides a natural way to communicate with dogs. Some of these people also tend to use non-violent procedures. However, the degree of violence is highly variable and depends on the method used by the trainer.

Detractors claim that there is a lack of solid arguments in this technique. They also claim that dog whispering is based on popular beliefs, which could be true for several of its variants.

Same detractors usually question the alpha dog paradigm and argue that there’s no need for a model based on dominance hierarchies.

Biologists Raymond and Lorna Coppinger are among the few people who carried out extensive scientific studies on social behavior and evolution of dogs. Their studies reject the paradigm of the alpha dog, and these scientists say that wolves and dogs have very different behavior repertoires. Therefore, studies on the behavior of wolves shouldn’t be useful for a better understanding of dog’s behavior.

Perhaps further studies on canine ethology could lead to a better understanding of dog behavior. Meanwhile, most dog whispering variants can’t provide clear and precise guidelines for dog training; even when there are some really successful “dog whisperers” like Cesar Millan and Jan Fennell.

Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. His website http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com provides great info on canine training and behavior.

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Supplies

Supplies you will need before you bring your new puppy home: The first thing you’ll need is a travel crate for your dog’s trip home. You’ll also need to buy some high quality puppy food and bowls for food and water. Your vet, breeder or shelter personnel can tell you which brands of food are the best. Other items you’ll need to get in advance of the new puppy’s arrival are: an adjustable collar, a leash, toys and bedding. Don’t forget to make an appointment with your veterinarian for your puppy’s first check-up!

No food should ever be fed to a dog unless that food is put into some type of a container. The practice of putting food on newspapers or directly on a cage floor or the ground serves no purpose except to contaminate the food from the surroundings. This method also contaminates the surroundings from the food, draw flies, increase parasite transmission and soil the dog’s coat. The money, time and energy a dog owner thinks he is saving by such feeding practices are completely wiped out by the loss of the dog, the time spent to clean floors and combat insects, or the effort needed to put a food-soiled coat back into show condition.

Crate Training

Crate training is a method by which your dog is taught to stay in a crate within your house for prolonged periods of time. This is an especially useful technique for dogs that would otherwise tear up the house when left alone. The best time to start crate training is when your dog is still a puppy. Leave him in the open crate for brief periods of time at first and then begin closing the door behind him.

Make sure that your puppy’s crate experience is always positive by giving him treats and rewards whenever he enters the crate. Once he is comfortable, you can leave him in the crate for increasing periods of time - give him his meals there as well.

Never use the crate as punishment. You want your dog to feel that his crate is a safe refuge, not a prison. Furthermore, the crate is a place where your dog can go to feel safe and secure while you and your family are away from home for a few hours. When you’re home, your dog should be out of his crate and socializing with his human family.

Obedience

Teaching basic obedience skills to a dog can be exciting as well as challenging. Having problems on where to begin? Start by doing your homework. A student can only be as good as his trainer, right?

The first lesson in obedience is to get your dog to pay attention to the commands. You want to start by calling his name and then using a keyword like “watch” or “look” afterwards. This way, he will associate the words to a command. Once you’ve got his attention, the lessons can begin.

You want your dog to be able to pay attention for a short length of time. Try keeping his attention by doing attention exercises. One example would be to hold a toy or dog treat in near your mouth and then give him the keyword command.

Each time he takes the time to watch, praise him. The more you do this exercise, the more time he should be able to pay attention to you. Try getting him to watch for at least a minute. Let him know that he is doing a good job by rewarding him. Dogs learn best this way.

Because dogs have such short attention spans, they get distracted pretty easily. Choose a place that is free of other distractions such as other pets, children or loud noises. Training sessions should only last approximately 30 minutes tops. Usually, if you go over this time limit, the dog will get restless and easily distracted.

If your dog isn’t learning very quickly, you may become frustrated. Don’t take that frustration out on your animal. A few things to remember before starting your obedience lessons:

1) Never cause pain to your dog (this will cause him to shy away or become aggressive to you.)

2) If he begins to become distracted, change the tone of your voice (this doesn’t mean raising it)

3) Consistency can not be stressed enough (animals are like children, if you’re not consistent, they will become confused as to what is expected)

Teaching your dog basic obedience commands will make for a more obedient and more pleasant dog to be around.

The first command to start off with would be to sit. You must use the word sit while teaching him so that he can relate the word with the action. Start by gently pushing his backside down and saying the word “sit.” Eventually he will catch on to the concept.

The second command is “down.” Dogs can become pretty hyper when they get excited. Jumping up on their owner’s lap is usually how they express their excitement. If you have a big dog or have other people over, you might not want them pouncing about. When they jump up, tell them “down.” Do not pet them or act excited to see them while they are on you. Continue to tell them “down,” and even place their legs down if you have to.

Next is the command of “stay.” This command is a good one to know especially if you have a rambunctious hyper dog. You can teach him stay, for example, by putting a treat or something desirable on the ground. As he moves toward it, tell him “Stay.” Another good idea would be to put your hand up while saying the word “stay.” When he begins to become obedient in this area, you can move further away from him. This will cause him to become more daring and he will probably take a step forward to see how much he can get away with. When he does this, continue to put your hand out and tell him “stay.” He has to know that even though you are moving away, you can still see what he’s doing and expect him to continue to obey.

After you’ve mastered the stay command, you will move on to the come command. Once your dog has learned to sit and stay, he will need a command to know when it’s ok to get up and approach you. They may be a bit confused at first, but with a change in the tone of your voice, he will soon understand. Put a little excitement in your voice when saying the word “come”. He will pick up on it. You might also want to pat your leg when you say come.

Stand is the last command to achieve. This is where your dog is allowed to get a little excited but not in a pouncing kind of way. When teaching your dog to stand, pat your hands on your chest and, once again, put a little excitement in your voice, so that he knows he’s aloud, under certain circumstances. He will begin to know the difference.

Teaching your dog basic obedience, if possible, should be taught as soon as you and your dog are ready. Remember be consistent with the commands and don’t forget to have fun!

Arild Myklebust runs the free http://doggroomingtips.ws website. Visit now, to get more useful Dog Tips & Articles and also a Free Email Newsletter. For other topics, check out his http://freetips.ws website.

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